The details of cam timing being deliberately retarded to waste fuel can found in the D6.pdf taken from the Panacea university site.The water forum posts on the subject are shown below.

George Perser - watercar 9/10/07

Matthew You are totally correct in your thinking on this. We must remember that we are dealing with an inherently inefficient system, and must use technology that is totally at odds with current scientific knowledge to allow the ultimate goal of running our vehicles on water. I just put a new timing chain in my friends 1999 Chevy S10 Pickup truck, and in so doing I advanced the Cam Timing one tooth on the crankshaft. The result is greatly increased power and a 20% increase in fuel mileage. What we need to do is quit thinking in normal terms and think outside the box. Sorry for the long winded reply, but had to get this off my chest. Listen to Bob Boyce and Paul Zigouras, who have done what the rest of us are trying to do.Tom

Rod - Hydroxy 16/8/07

advancing the cam time will make the engine run cooler. i have been messing with cam timing also for about 25 years. any car built after 1971 should have the cam time changed, since there most set retarded to lower hydrocarbons and co for emissions. i had a 85 ford ranger once with a 2.8 liter engine it was a dog. same engine the mercury capri used in the 70 that had lots of power. the ranger was a dog since cam timing was set allmost 10 degrees retarde. set it a 8 degrees advance and the ford ranger came to life and hauled ass. also after market ratio rocker arms help alot on late model cars. change cam timing on my 1998 chevy truck to 10 degrees with 350 engine and installed ratio rocker arms and it gain almost 90 hp and brought the power band lower and more torqe since the rocker make the cam have higher lift and longer duration on the cam to breath better. 

peej1904 - Hydroxy 14/8/07

No one talks about Cam timing and hydroxy. I've been playing with cam timing for over 25 years. This is not a proven fact, but what I've found that seems to work very well. For years I've been adjusting the CAM timing advanced on my own personal vehicles as much as 10 degrees For those of you who may not understand, Cam timing is when the valves open and close in relation to the crank shaft and piston movement. The# 1 piston is set at true TDC. At that point the degree wheel is set to the front of the engine against the front pulley at the zero degree mark and you install a pointer mounted to the engine block pointing at the zero mark on the wheel. When the crank is turned to about the 108 to 112 degree mark, the intake valve is fully opened. That is where most engines are set now a days. To me this what I call retarded cam timing.

The engine seems to run good but doesn't really to seem to have much good low and mid range pulling power. In racing you would retard a cam for high RPMs, they also could breath and had no restriction in the exhaust. The power may come in at, lets say 3000 - 6500 RPMs and advancing a cam for more torque and power, that same cam may produce power at 1000- 4000 RPMs and after all, who drives over 4000 rpms on the road. Over the years I've found when I advance the cam on my own car or trucks I would experience much more usable normal driving power and many times a 50% up to 100% increase in mileage. The other part that seems good, is that years ago when we had to go for the state exhaust test, the hydro carbons and co were reduce by almost 90%. 

I hadn't adjusted any of my newer vehicals for many years because I was told that this would screw up the computer controls "OB2" until fuel went up to $3.00 pr gal. I'm not saying that every body should run out a do this, but I pulled the front of my wifes 2004 jeep wrangler 2.4 ltr apart that has 2 over head cams up front and moved both cams about 10 degrees advanced. The difference is before we got 13-14 mpg and being a 4 cylinder it was such a dog. Now it runs with the power of a 6 cylinder and we get 23-24 mpg around town and "not saying I did this" 23-24 at 80 mph on a 5 hour trip. 

So far no ck engine light coming on and just passed inspection. The point is, I'm sure with the engine running more efficient, by running hydroxy it seems that you would need less of that type of fuel as well. 

This seems to me to be equal to getting more hydroxy production when it comes to the amount neede to run the car. Right now we are hoping the mall adjustable amp to lower and increase the ox sensor mil/volts will allow us to ad enough hydroxy at 1500 rpm and above to be able to run along on the mix with out the ck eng light coming on, but at lower speeds using normal fuel so not to have as much of a water problem with the rusting. Next chore is to make a retard unit to install to the computer to retard the timing when the hydroxy kicks in. Hope this info helps.